To France , Grenada was paradise lost in 1783, to visitors today, it is paradise found.
Just how heavenly Grenada turns out to be is one wonderful surprise after another. Blessed with friendly people proud of their black and white sandy beaches, spectacular waterfalls, tropical rainforests, bird sanctuaries and wildlife preserves, “The Spice of the Caribbean ” is a dream come true. The spice plantations, rum distilleries, old forts and colonial architecture are links to the past that will never be forgotten and continue to fascinate visitors even today.
GRENADA IN A CAPSULE
Grenada was occupied solely by the Caribs when Columbus first spotted it in 1498. For well over a century (1650-1783) the tug-of-war between Britain and France ended with victory for the British under the Treaty of Versailles. In 1974 Grenada was granted independence, but remains in the British Commonwealth .
Grenada, Carriacou and Petit Martinique are the most southerly of the Windward islands, but they are all regarded as the island nation of Grenada, famous the world over for a distinctive low-key lifestyle.
EN ROUTE TO GRENADA BY AIR JAMAICA
Getting to Grenada is a breeze by Air Jamaica , the only airline that flies non-stop to the island and in just over four-and-a-half hours from New York ’s JFK airport. At the check-in counter I noticed that an upgrade to first-class was less than a limo ride from Manhattan and figured “Why not?” I was looking forward to a relaxing flight so that I would arrive rested and ready for a week of fun in the sun.
My first impression? The staff must love their jobs – they all exhibited a cheery disposition for such an early morning start and on boarding the aircraft the welcoming smiles were just as warm, and the hospitality just as gracious.
If you enjoy champagne, fly Air Jamaica . For beer lovers, it’s a welcome chance to try Jamaica ’s Red Stripe beer, which is also complimentary. The bubbly sure perked up my morning breakfast of an omelette with sausages and a fruit plate.
Acclaimed “Best Airline to the Caribbean ” at the World Travel Awards for seven years in a row, Air Jamaica ’s status was further elevated by the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences with a Five Star Diamond Award, an accolade bestowed on the world’s finest airlines that include Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Swiss Air and Virgin Atlantic.
Every meal is served hot with Champagne and extends to Lovebird economy passengers whose seats are impressively spacious for more than pint-sized jockeys. You can actually negotiate your way into the aisle without bumping your seat-mate/s en route.
A big plus is that the carrier departed on schedule and upon arrival at Point Salines International Airport I collected my luggage in record time. The early morning departure meant that I landed on the island in daylight and I had an entire afternoon to do as I pleased.
MY ACCOMMODATION AT BEL AIR PLANTATION
The pulse of Grenada beats along the two-mile stretch at Grand Anse where high-caliber resorts line the world-famous beach, but many more can be found in several parishes. For my R&R getaway, Bel Air Plantation overlooking St. David’s Harbour proves ideal. With just 11 villas and cottages on 18 beautifully landscaped acres, it’s almost like being on vacation at a family estate (belonging to Susan Fisher), and the Water’s Edge restaurant certainly rev up the taste buds with island spices dished out with culinary creations by chef Debbie St. Paul. While unwinding around the infinity pool and enjoying eye-popping sunsets fulfill dreamy expectations in this quiet haven, the rest of the island can be captivating too.
Click here to read “A Love Affair with Food in Grenada”
SIGHTSEEING WITH KENNEDY TOURS
Island tours are popular with visitors and Kennedy Tours offer five routes, four different hikes or custom designed trips conducted by owner Kennedy Jawahir (who likes to be called Kennedy) and who dispenses facts and figures non-stop. Always going the extra mile, this self-described historian remains as proud and passionate as ever about his birthplace. The result is an infectious enthusiasm for all things Grenadian and a perennial desire to visit again and again.
- Downtown
The tour starts in Grenada’s hillside capital of St. George’s which curves around the Carenage, the famous “horseshoe” harbor, and is recognized as a panoramic beauty unrivalled by few in the Caribbean .
Along the waterfront strip are souvenir/gift shops, banks and restaurants, but a fine spot to harbor gaze and people watch is from a window table at the Nutmeg, famous for West Indian cuisine, especially the lambi roti - conch meat curry in a taco-like soft shell, only larger and thicker.
A short drive away is Fort George, built by the French to keep intruders at bay. Now visitors can explore the remarkably intact 18 th century fortification with cannons still on display. Within the courtyard there is a wall on the right pitted with bullet holes, left there in 1983 when revolutionary leader Maurice Bishop and his cohorts were executed by dissenting factions within his own party.
Fort Frederick was built in 1791 on Richmond Hill overlooking the island’s southwestern coastline, but is also known as the “missed target” during the 1983 American attempt to save the island from an alleged takeover by Marxists. The two forts are often described as “back-to-front” forts, designed to provide all-round protection by the French.
The open-air market in St. George’s has a fun atmosphere with lots of friendly islanders where it seems I am everyone’s “darling.” When I ask for seasoning peppers instead of the spices for sale, a vendor takes me to another stall that has them. A great thirst quencher here is coconut water that I slurp through a straw, and afterwards it is split in half so I can eat the jelly-like flesh…. all for less than an American dollar! Tropical fruits come in all colors, shapes and sizes and include bananas, papayas, mangoes, guavas, soursop, grapefruit, golden apple and starfruit.
- Concord Falls
Kennedy jokes that “the soil is so rich if you stand in one place too long you will grow” and it seems that way because there are countless fruit laden trees lining the roads as we drive along, some within arm’s length. On the way to Concord Falls in the parish of St. Johns on the west coast, the scenery is lush with vegetation and pretty tropical flowers. I can hear the joy in Kennedy’s voice as the names roll off his tongue; there’s acacia (or “Pride of Barbados” to the locals), beausejour, Mexican creeper vine and exora, some in full bloom.
Fitzroy and Albert are not a Las Vegas duo, but instead are two fixtures at the falls, the former a fruit, vegetable and spice vendor, and the latter an artist who makes jewelry. For over 20 years Albert Langaigne has handcrafted rings, bracelets and pendants from what looks like bits of sticks, but are in fact “brown coral” brought to the surface by divers from within 80 to 90 feet of water in the sea.
The artist buys bundles of the “coral” and cuts them into smaller pieces to begin his handiwork. Each piece must then be “burned over a fire” i.e. held over a candle for 20 minutes so that it softens to allow him to bend it into the desired shape. Once cold, it hardens and then he uses different saws to craft his pieces. Next he uses an assortment of files to detail his designs, followed by smoothing every item with four different grades of sandpaper. Each individual item is then polished to a shiny finish with a Brasso-soaked rag and left to dry.
Langaigne sits at his makeshift wooden table all day long, burning, sawing, filing, smoothening and polishing his wares, as tourists frolic at the falls below, while others like myself and my van mates watch him at work. Did I buy anything? Of course - a beautiful, shiny bracelet that cost US$20, and I wouldn’t dream of trying to haggle with him over the price because it takes five to six hours to fashion the bracelet. To me, it’s a bargain and a lovely Grenadian souvenir.
There are two other waterfalls, Au Coin, a 45-minute hike away, and off the beaten track is Fontainbleu where the water tumbles down a 65-foot cliff and pools transparently below.
- Annandale Falls
This picturesque falls is not far from the village called Constantine and for a few dollars you will always find a local daredevil who is eager to show off his diving skills and hopefully you can snap his lightning descent on camera.
- Dougaldston Spice Estate
The Dougaldston Spice Estate near Gouyave is not just the primary producer of the island’s spices, but is also the oldest plantation where spices have been naturally prepared for centuries. I am a little confused about the word “boucan” until Kennedy explains it is actually a building beset by enormous drying trays with attached rails. If it rains the trays are quickly shoved under the building, just as they are for overnight security. Inside the boucan Kennedy puts me to the test of identifying individual spices by smelling the leaves on unmarked cuttings. There are no prizes but he describes how the spices are harvested, processed and the wide variety of products they yield. Seasonal crops of mace, cinnamon, pimento or cloves are all dried in direct sunlight, except for nutmeg. The nutmeg crop generates a whopping one-third share of the world market and Grenada ranks behind Indonesia as the word’s second largest nutmeg producer.
- River Antoine Rum Distillery
River Antoine Rum Distillery in St. Patrick’s maintains its record as the oldest water-powered distillery throughout the Caribbean still in existence since 1785. What a fascinating place to listen to the ancient rhythm of the old-fashioned water wheel turning as it fuels the mill to crush and extract the juice from the cane. In turn bagasse, the solid cane residue, is used to run the boiler that distills the fermented juice. Tours include samples of the over-proof rum, so strong it can knock your socks off (I hung on to mine!)
- Morne Fendue
This 1908 plantation house in St. Patrick’s on the eastern side of the island is a lovely spot to stop for lunch while touring the island. Dr. Jean Thompson and her staff greet guests with a refreshing lemony drink before we are led to a table filled with a delightful array of local fare. The callalloo soup is very tasty and the buffet also includes delicious curried fish, stewed pumpkin and chicken (separate dishes), garden salad, a rice medley with pigeon peas and my absolute favorite, yam pie. Dessert was a divinely creamy ice cream flavored by a local fruit called soursop.
The verandah entrance is engulfed by tropical plants overflowing with flowers, while the grounds at the rear of the stone house overlook a delightful scene of lush valleys. The property was originally owned by Betty Mascoll, who served as a nurse during World War II and was made a Member of the British Empire (MBE.)
- Grenada Chocolate Company
A small cottage style operation produces chocolate bars in a solar powered chocolate factory in the village of Hermitage which is surrounded by cocoa farms. Visitors are walked through the process that results in dark chocolate bars, but although I have visited twice I was never lucky to see the machinery in action. These include wood fired roasters, winnowers, grinders and cocoa butter presses.
Dining Out
During the evening there are many resort restaurants that will put a new perspective on culinary experiences in Grenada . La Luna is a favorite with people who like privacy. Mick Jagger’s ex, Jerry Hall, sought the seclusion of this chic resort when it first opened four years ago. The open kitchen is the domain of Italian chef Benedetto La Fiura whose cooking is influenced by the Caribbean and of course, Europe . Dress is casual, but the food is first-class. www.laluna.com
Just beside Grand Anse Beach is The Flamboyant Hotel and it’s the perfect spot to indulge in great food and entertainment. Over a lobster meal I enjoyed a songster’s lyrics and then a limbo performance that got several guests out on the floor. No one dared to mimic his fire-eating antics though! www.flamboyant.com
For fine dining, the luxurious Spice Island Beach Resort is the place to be seen, especially since it recently re-opened after a US$12 million renovation. Oliver’s Gourmet Restaurant features Continental and Creole cuisine. www.spiceislandresort.com
True Blue Bay Resort is a rollicking place, packed with tourists who obviously enjoy the flavors of the international menu, including Caribbean style food. It’s popular with the boating set since there is also a marina. www.truebluebay.com
Rainforest Hiking
The outdoors is another escape the island offers. I recommend visiting Grand Etang National Park in the company of Telfor Bedeau, the island’s most dedicated hiker who has been hailed as Grenada ’s Indiana Jones and Huckleberry Finn, but to me he is the “King of Hiking.” It’s lots of fun trekking through the rainforest with a lake 1,740 feet above sea level, enjoying some very exciting sights and sounds, and Bedeau’s deadpan jokes.
Click here to read “Into the Rainforest with Grenada ’s King of Hiking”
Souvenirs from Arawak Islands
Before leaving Grenada, try to get to Arawak Islands (not the kind surrounded by water), but a small factory store that sells genuine “Made in Grenada ” souvenirs. I even watch some items being packaged by hand! The celebrated nutmeg is bottled as jam, jelly, syrup, liqueur and even massage oil! Spices are available in all varieties, but one of the most unique items is the miniature grater with three whole nutmegs. Perfumes, potpourri, handcrafted soaps and candles are also great gift ideas.